The Decently Average Honcho

Is that what they mean by "clocking" the axle?

clocking can mean 2 things really with an axle. You can clock the housing itself adjusting the pinion angle and you can clock the chubs changing castor.

I see, that makes sense.  In the above photo by slash 127 it looks like he clocked the housing to get a better angle for his pinion gear in the differential housing.  But maybe he also had to clock the chubs backwards?  If you clock the chubs wouldn't you mostly want them clocked rearwards?  Meaning the top of the chub is further behind the axle centerline than the bottom of the chub?

I see, that makes sense.  In the above photo by slash 127 it looks like he clocked the housing to get a better angle for his pinion gear in the differential housing.  But maybe he also had to clock the chubs backwards?  If you clock the chubs wouldn't you mostly want them clocked rearwards?  Meaning the top of the chub is further behind the axle centerline than the bottom of the chub?
[/quote]the above pic looks like a rear axle so clocking at the hub is gonna be irrelevant. If its a front then yes you would want the tops leaned back clockwise when viewed from the side for correct castor. In a perfect world you want to split the angle of your 2 driveline yolks so they see and equal angle. You will get better life out of both joints and have less torque induced back onto the chassis causing torque twist. Castor is more in depth and an adjustment better left to those with a very solid suspension design understanding. I won't even go into it as its more harmful to open that can of worms. I don't wanna start people onto something that could really ruin a truck. Most of the time there is no need to mess with it. I love suspension myself and how and why it works and doesn't. There isn't a single aspect of it that doesn't relate back to another part. It is a symphony of sorts being composed under your truck while you drive. If 1 member of the huge band doesn't show up or is off key it will effect the whole orchastra.

Good eye.  Yes, it is a rear axle, I wasn't paying attention.  I'm going to have to get my AX10 off the shelf and see how I set it up.  I know I did some clocking for the differential pinion, but I don't recall what I did with the caster.  One thing I did notice is that I seem to get a lot of torque twist...those pillows can be very unforgiving.  Maybe one of these days you could have a look and give me some feedback on it.

Finally together. Still need to do a shakedown run and see if I run into any problems

Looks like a beast. Looking in the last pick you might wanna rotate those chubs back a few notches. Even better go 1 past and drill new holes.

Yeah I noticed when you turn the wheels lean the guy that had the axles before had the pitches on the wrong axles and it setup with the diffs on the wrong side

Ya a foward steering lean is no good. It will translate to the wheels moving but the truck still pushing straight. Not sure if you figured it out but wraith axles are 100%universal. They can go either way with the pumpkin on either side and can rotate in whatever direction you want. You can run them with opposing pumpkins even.

Yeah that's how they were set up but the steering link wouldn't work so I switched em

then you were doing something wrong with the steering link lol. Fully clocked back is the norm and most of us go 1 past and slot the hub further or just drill new holes. Something's not right.

Its all the way forward from being opposite

Huh?

???

The bolt is at the front from the axles being turned around

We must be talking about different things. I'm talking about where your c hub attaches to the end of the axle on the splined section. Right now the top of you chub is in roughly the 10 oclock position. You need to pull the c hub off the axle and put it back on a few splines the other way like in the 2 o'clock position. The holes that the chubs bolt on with are perfectly symmetrical on the centerline of the axle. So regardless of flipping pumpkins or directions they always work the same. Right now you are gonna lose most of your potential steering right into the ground. Any high speed maneuver will result in a flip also due to this.

We were talking about the same thing it was all the way at the back of the hole on top in the slot and the front of the slot on the bottom. Now they're switched and the steering link is now where it should be not in the dirt and not near as much roll in the steering. Thanks for the advice!

steering

Now she's a beast! 2.2 tsl swampers

is it running yet?