Hyper 10SC Fixin'

This truck handled great out of the box so I am just trying to improve a few small things.  The real test will be driving it when I'm done.

Changing the droop inside the shocks instead of with grub screws will make droop changes a lot more difficult, but I am hoping that once I find a good setting it will suffice for different driving conditions.

  I would like to do a backyard style oval track w/ some locals-maybe a Mon. or Tues. afternoon-I have a slash-what do you think???

Sounds great.  Do you have a track?  Where are you located?

I was re-reading my previous post about the SC8 caster hub spacers and realized it was just some basic information and I could have been clearer.
I used one each blue and red spacer in each shock.  The blue spacers measure 1.68 mm thick and the read spacers are 2.64 mm thick so I have reduced the extended length of each shock by 4.32 mm.  This is to change my droop instead of using the factory grub screws that mated with the aluminum chassis.  It's a little dark tonight, but tomorrow I will take a photo showing the difference this makes comparing the rear suspension with shocks mounted and the front without the shocks mounted.

Here is a side view of the truck with the rear shocks installed and no shocks or grub screws in the front. You can see the difference in the droop by adding 4.32 mm spacers inside the shocks. My rear axles have a slight downward angle but nothing drastic. The final ride height won't be able to be adjusted until I get all the components mounted and a battery installed so I have the final race weight.

Here is a shot of the last shock being rebuilt. You can see the SC8 caster spacers on the shock shaft and the differences in thickness.
I mentioned in a earlier post about limiting the up travel of the shocks. I had intended to add some fuel hose to the shock shaft on the outside of the piston between the rod end and the shock body but I've noticed that the existing shock shaft booties are doing a pretty good job of this already and by adding fuel line I will just interfere with the booties so I will do the test runs with the stock booties only and see how it runs.

This truck handled great out of the box so I am just trying to improve a few small things.  The real test will be driving it when I'm done.

Changing the droop inside the shocks instead of with grub screws will make droop changes a lot more difficult, but I am hoping that once I find a good setting it will suffice for different driving conditions.
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The first thing I would junk on that is the tires, go to g and b's and grab a set of slash 4x4 proline wheels and tires, I like bowties.  By the way calling that rig an OFNA is like kicking it in the balls.  It's true name is hoboa!

I have several sets of different ProLine tires for this truck and also ProLine Split Six bead lock wheels. But I have to say that I am pretty impressed with these stock tires. Out-of-the-box I thought I would have to scrap these tires right away also, but after running them I was really surprised. Of course I am not racing like you and have not driven this truck on a real track since things went to hell in the area last year and I am just not interested to go to White City and deal with all that anymore.

LOL...I call it Hobao a lot!

I've finally gotten the front and rear shocks mounted and did some preliminary shock adjustment, but with the truck still so light I am sure I will have to re-do much of this. The front is more off than the rear because I have the shocks a little tighter on the springs. Even so, you can see there is a slight rake in the setup.
Here is the static ride height from the front and rear without most of the electronics and battery.

While I was changing the rear bumper I also replaced the rear DE Racing chassis protector since the one I mounted last year was pretty hammered. Job well done!

Well I've gone and ordered some shafts to replace the bent CV drives so I guess it will be end of the week before I can complete the chassis part of this re-built.
I only ordered one pair and I see one front is definitely bent, but one rear is also suspect so I might replace that one also.

BTW: In case you have a Hyper 10SC and did not know it, the stock truck comes with nice CV joints on the front and dog bone drives in the rear.  However they are the same dimension and so you can buy a set of front CV drives and install them in the rear.  It's better to have a captured CV drive than a dog bone since they only slide on in the cups on one side and not both.  This brings up a aspect about this truck that is pretty cool.  Symmetry.  It's awful nice to be able to have parts that fit front and rear and not have to keep spares for both.  Shocks and CV drives are parts that wear and keeping one spare set instead that fits front and rear instead of two, one front and one rear, is just less money sitting on the shelf.

I've been making so much sweet maintenance love to this truck I should be playing Lionel Richie...

I have several sets of different ProLine tires for this truck and also ProLine Split Six bead lock wheels.  But I have to say that I am pretty impressed with these stock tires.  Out-of-the-box I thought I would have to scrap these tires right away also, but after running them I was really surprised.  Of course I am not racing like you and have not driven this truck on a real track since things went to hell in the area last year and I am just not interested to go to White City and deal with all that anymore.

LOL...I call it Hobao a lot! 

I've finally gotten the front and rear shocks mounted and did some preliminary shock adjustment, but with the truck still so light I am sure I will have to re-do much of this.  The front is more off than the rear because I have the shocks a little tighter on the springs.  Even so, you can see there is a slight rake in the setup.
Here is the static ride height from the front and rear without most of the electronics and battery.

While I was changing the rear bumper I also replaced the rear DE Racing chassis protector since the one I mounted last year was pretty hammered.  Job well done!


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I quit running the spilt sixes because of the weight they bring to the table, those are some HEAVY rims and rotating mass is an enemy not an allie.  I run the preglued tire and rim comb which is quite a bit lighter.  The stock tires for comparison on mine lasted less than five minutes before they split and litterally blew the foams out and that was only on 4s.

Do you duct tape the inside of your tires?  It's something I am thinking about doing.

I use filament tape (strapping tape). It works very good at keeping the tires from balooning and popping off the beadlocks.

[quote author=smitty link=topic=90.msg624#msg624 date=1316487067]
I use filament tape (strapping tape). It works very good at keeping the tires from balooning and popping off the beadlocks.
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When you buy a "preglued" tire there is no need for strapping tape of any kind as the rotating mass is much lower, and as such ballon much less.

I am not sure I understood that.  Are preglued tires thinner than the same tire non-preglued, or are you referring to the wheel?

Pre-glued tires will still balloon. They are less likely to separate from the rim unless they are improperly glued, than with the beadlock rims. IMO

I have had no tire separation with my beadlocks since I belted the tires with filament tape.

I have a couple sets of factory wheels I can use to glue tires to if I don't like the beadlocks. I'll have to see how it runs first.

Still waiting for some parts so in the meantime I am getting the body prepped for painting.

BAH.  I sprayed my first layer of paint this morning using a can of Pactra "Bright Red" (RC287) and it is WAY DARKER than I expected....crap.  It doesn't even match the cap.  I wanted a Ferrari-ish red and this is definitely not that.  Oh well, one thing about SC truck bodies is they only last about one season....

Has anyone ever used Parma Liquid Mask (#701)?  This is my first time and trying to paint all the detail was something I don't know if I want to do again.

I made my own stripes for the sides and my dilemma was how to make them symmetrical.  What I did was lay down some regular blue painters masking tape on both sides of some wax paper and sketch my design on one side and cut it out with a xacto knife.  Then I could peel off the masks from both sides of the wax paper making mirrored stripes.

I should have the body done today if all goes well.

Well here is the final painted and stickered body.

Body painting for me is one of those things that never looks good enough or turns out like you imagine it. I'm am pretty happy with the results but the mistakes are shining in my eyes.

The paint turned out a little brighter than I thought after I got the protective film off. The pictures don't look that good so tomorrow I will take some in the sunlight so the colors will be more representative of what it looks like in person.

That looks great  8)

Look at it this way...
If you are in a race, the other drivers will be looking at their own truck, not yours.
Even if they do you'll be going so fast they won't see the goofs.

Actually, it appears to me to be a real fine paint job.
Much better than the first, second or third one that I painted.

One of the nice things about using acrylic water based craft paint is...
If you really screw up, you can scrub it off and start over.

BTW, I missed out on the Hyper 10SC. Still looking.