GAUI 500X

Thanks Mike.  I think the Lawmate 1.2 Ghz 1000mw unit looks pretty good to me so far.

I ordered the light kit today for the booms.  Now I want to figure out some transmitter operated head/search lights.  I am considering a, or a pair, of LED Lenser M1 flashlights.  I think I saw a device somewhere that plugs into a receiver channel and acts like a switch.  I want a electronic witch that would eliminate the push button on/off switches on the flashlights.

Thanks Mike.  Is this device a set of dry contacts, or is it turning a voltage on and off?  I am looking for a set of relay contacts since the flashlights will have their own batteries.

Just went to the HK site and attempted to understand the manuals.  It's pretty clear that the switched outputs are just FET or BJT transistors.  There is no clue to whether they are optically isolated, but I really doubt they are.  They also fail to give any spec for maximum switching current which could be a real problem.  Your little flashlight uses a single CR123 battery, which means it must have an inverter in it to boost the voltage for the white LED.  I'd be sure to check the switching current before I connected it to HK board.  I know my LED flashlights like that draw about an amp and use two CR123's.  To get the same output from one cell, you'd have to double the current.  I did see in their samples that they are triggering rocket squibs which draw quite a bit of current.  They do however pulse the channel for that application to protect the output.  How well this works on your flashlight will be determined by two things.  First, if the transistor can handle your flashlight current in continuous operation and second, if the loss across the transistor drops the voltage to much to power the inverter.  There is not much head room when you use one cell.  You could help both of these problems by picking a light that uses two cells.  With a two cell light, there is no inverter and also because the voltage is higher, the current is lower.  If you're worried about the extra weight, just use the head off the light with it's LED and current limiter and throw the heavy body part and batteries away.  Then you can power both lights from a single two cell LiPo saving a lot of weight and money.  Don't know if you've bought many CR123's, but they are about $10-$12 a pair here in town.  If you stay with the CR123's, I have some really good on-line sources I can turn you on to.  I'd ditch them for this application.

The thing I found really confusing in the manual is how the outputs are controlled with the switch.  Mike can answer this one for us.  Does it toggle the outputs by the number of switch activations or dies it sequence though the outputs each time you toggle the switch?  I couldn't figure that out for sure.

BTW... If the HK board can handle the power, you don't need to connect anything to the Red and Black wires.  You just need to run the two flashlight wires over.  That would make things really simple.

...Tiger

UPDATE:  Just read all the feedback on HK (lots of it bad).  Not looking good for the flashlight.  The outputs are definitely BJT (not FET) and have a lot of loss that I don't see how you can tolerate on a single cell flashlight.  Several people said they couldn't fire a squib because of the high voltage loss and some simple burned the unit up trying.  Also, someone posted insight into the output circuit so I'll quote that below.  At this point, the only way I see you using this is to use it to drive a relay and let that switch the flashlight.  The feedback also made it a little clearer that the outputs were sequenced according to mode which kinda sucks.  I'm sure this thing is fine in the right application, but what we're talking about here sure doesn't look right.  If all you want is a simple on-off function, I think I'd rather use a "brushed" ESC like GWS.    ...Tiger

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Hi guys, I just bought one and took it apart, here are some technical details...

It uses a ULN2003 chip which can provide up to 500mA continuous per channel (600mA peak). However if using more than 1 channel (on continuously) you have to derate it with each additional channel. For instance:
1 channel = 500mA
2 channel = 350mA (each channel)
3 channel = 280mA (each channel)
4 channel = 250mA (each channel)
5 channel = 200mA (each channel)
6 channel = 190mA (each channel)
7 channel = 180mA (each channel)

These are approx figures read from the power dissipation graph of the ULN2003. YMMV /- 20mA

The ULN2003 is an open collector device, meaning it is simply a switch to ground. The datasheet says it can handle up to 50V, however I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS and suggest you stick with the suggested range (3s max), alternatively try it and post results )

Looking at the headers on the board the bottom row of pins are connected to the external power input ve and the top row are the switches to ground. Connect you load between the two pins observing correct polarity for things like LEDs and you're good to go.

Thank you Golden Child and Tiger. I don't think this HK board will do what I am looking to do without the addition of a relay. I found this over at Perfect Regulators:

http://www.perfectregulators.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=82

If I am not mistaken this device seems to be intended for arming a aircraft but it seems to have enough switching current for what I want to do.

I agree with your suggestions to lose the CR123s and also to power the flashlights with a LiPo instead and just use the flashlight head which will save weight. I wonder if the inverter is in the flashlight head or with the power button at the back? The reason I liked this LED Lenser flashlight is because I have some of their other models and I really like the LED lens on them.

"CR123 Stupid Expensive - Ditch them if you can use ANYTHING else" - I hate to post this link because if Mike goes there and looks around it's going to cost him a lot of money.   I'm a BIG user of CR123's in "sporting goods" and in commercial products so I had to find a good source.  These guys have them for just over a buck each normally and sometimes a buck each on sale.  The shelf life is 10yrs so I usually buy 25 to 50 at a time for personal use.  Once we bought 12,000 to go in a product and got a REALLY good deal.  You don't need to buy that many to get a good deal.  These things are like $12 a pair at Walmart!  Here is the link:  http://www.botachtactical.com/batteries.html  Mike - Just remember to stay away from their "Sporting Goods" (Eotech, Magpul, Trijicon, etc.).  John - You might look here at the flashlights.

...Tiger

If you are out shopping, here is a test I made of different brands before that 12K purchase.  As you can see from the last entry, you don't want the China Special.

...Tiger

I think I will stay away from the CR123s.  I do already have a box or two of ten from some Surefire flashlights I got a while back.  The CR123s I have are from Surefire.  I like your idea to use a regular LiPo a lot better, and I can recharge the LiPo.  I don't think the CR123s can be recharged can they?

I agree you shouldn't use the batts for what you're doing.  I was really posting that for Mike and anyone else that uses them in flashlights or tactical toys.  Yes they do make a rechargeable version, but what they are not quick to tell you is that it doesn't last very long and only holds about half the capacity.  The real CR123A is a killer battery.  i love them!

...Tiger

Well I was staying out of as there's plenty of talent already helping ... But if you go with a LiPo your going to have to figure in a LiPo Monitor w/ a LVC (Low Voltage Cut off) ... And generally those high AMP LED's such as the CREE's need way to dissipate the heat, heat sinks

Well I was staying out of as there's plenty of talent already helping ... But if you go with a LiPo your going to have to figure in a LiPo Monitor w/ a LVC (Low Voltage Cut off) ... And generally those high AMP LED's such as the CREE's need way to dissipate the heat, heat sinks
[/quote]

Yes Wood, heatsinks would be a good idea. For the cost of the RC switch Doo Dad thing I think I would do this:

I use LM 317 regulators for driving my LEDs hooked up in this manner:



I would use a POT instead of the resistor and hook a cheap servo up to it to turn the pot and adjust the LED from nearly off to full brightness. The aircraft is already pulling at least 10 amps or better to fly, 4 Cree LEDs will be happy with a 3s Lipo and only ask for 350 Ma (1/3 of 1 amp for all 4 total), pulling an extra 1/3rd amp from the flight battery will not even be noticed, our helis in a pitch pump sometimes ask for over 30 amps from the same battery.

Also if you want optics for the Cree XPG they are here:

http://www.ledsupply.com/carclo-optics-xpg.php

Could light up a man on the ground while flying at night with this thing...

Here's my Regulator design ...

... but for powering LED's it wouldn't need the Decoupling Caps, "C1" nor "C2"

The Diode "D12" will prevent miss wiring mishaps, won't fry the regulator if you cross the input and of course the
Power-On LED would be optional

I've used this as a Step-Down on Servo's that don't like to be run at 6v, if 6v is input the output is around 4.5v

[EDIT] Almost forgot, if more than 12v is required for the Input then it's advised a Heat-Sink to be used on the
Regulator itself to dissipate the heat produced. And obviously less than 12v the Heat-Sink isn't needed ...
Although it won't be an issue here it needed to be said, so that was me saying it {LOL}

"F1" shown in the Schematic is also optional. It's a Thermal Fuse and even though it's optional it maybe still good
engineering thus still a good idea to have. Meh, your choice as this Regulator is cheap enough we can do without it

"S1" a simple ON/OFF Toggle Switch which is also optional [/EDIT]

   

Thanks for the lens/reflector link Pelagic Pilot and also for the regulator w00d. I am not sure which way I will go yet flashlight or homebrewed. I have little real estate inside the canopy on the GAUI 500X so I will need to make whatever I use pretty small.

I figured out a mount for my ContourHD 1080 camera last night and went around town testing it today. Here are a couple videos:

This one is the flying field on Spalding:



This one is at the park by the Rogue River:

This is the first video from Spalding shot today - with horses.

Not that your thanks is not welcome Yoda but it's the same Regulator PPilot suggested so he should get the thanks also

Wow, that's cool! I love the Tap Rock video! Always wanted to FPV Tap Rock from the other side of the river. Had me nervous when you descended from the bridge the first time, got a little close to the rail it looked like. Seems like you have gotten real good at flying that thing in a very short time.

Thank you Pelagic Pilot.  I did almost come down from over the bridge on the wrong side of the railing.  That could have been a bummer.  I am flying line of sight and my eyes are not very good any more so the orientation and distance judgement get tricky sometimes.  The other thing is my camera mount is kind of hokey and my battery mount is a feeble attempt to get some decent CG.  I have a couple more videos I am uploading where I am using a 2700 mAh 3S LiPo and that one sticks out the back so far I get these weird oscillations sometimes that make the flying tricky.