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hey guys if i order the rpm arms do i need different hinge pins? im on youtube and some people say i do? any ideas?

Do not order rpm arms!  They ruin the handling of the sc10.

I'm sure we can find you a hex hub. Most rigs use the same 12 mm hubs.

http://www.toadzrc.com/aluminum-front-suspension-arms-bl-sct5501-sc10-t4.html

ok seen a few people with these. how are they? they look almost the same format as stock ones.

Id would say if u want em get em. What is your main priority of your truck. It seems like you would do better with a slash. Take my sc10 2wd for example. It is track only. And is babied (for the most part) my goal of the truck is to keep it light as possible but heavy enough to not compromise traction.  I aslo try and run what champion drivers run as well. Dont get me wrong. I occasionally run it out in the streets (with stock tires), or at b st. Jumps. But the reson I bought it was to race it. I wouldn't usually share this so openly, but if this helps you. This is the set up ill be running.

As chase said. Aluminum will only move the stress point elsewhere. Buy the stock arms and control your driving or as chase said it very well again get a slash to beat on.

Did some damage today. But not to worry its all back together and ready to go. I figured I'd post hear considering I snaped my a arm. Oh no right..... not. $6 replacement. Comes as a pair. So I got two. ( good to have back ups) after tear down getting ready for the swap I found an issue that was compromiseing my handling.  Aslo my have led to my aarm breaking.  I had broke my "aluminum" front bulk head. Snaped right in half. This is proof aluminum is not cracked up to be what people think. So out with the $25 aluminum shit, and in with the $2 stock replacement.

That aluminum piece as long as its factory is a good thing to have chase. Just an FYI.

Sometimes the aluminum parts are better.

yeah i orderd aluminum steering knuckles rear hubs shock rod endsand a set of stock plastic front arms. next i might order stock replacement rears too.just to have them.

That one was integy. But I can buy ten " factory team" carbon  replacements for the price of this aluminum peice.  If the plastic bulkhead goes quick then I'll get another aluminum.  But it shouldn't if I drive right. Lol

I think parts like the knuckles, "C" hubs, shock tower uprights are good choices for aluminum "Team" parts.

It makes sense to me now Chase that you broke that aluminum Integy part.  Some, maybe a lot, of Integy stuff is cast and not machined.  Cast parts will more likely break and the machined parts will often bend before breaking.  I bet if you had the Team Associated aluminum part (if they make one for that piece) it would have bent and not broken.

Makes sense. . I dont think they do make that part. But if I see it. I'll prob get it. Shes running smooth right now. But it was good for that little bit of weight it gave me up front. I can always add weight.  But if its center in a part. Built into the chassis thats a plus for me.

Makes sense. . I dont think they do make that part. But if I see it. I'll prob get it. Shes running smooth right now. But it was good for that little bit of weight it gave me up front. I can always add weight.  But if its center in a part. Built into the chassis thats a plus for me.
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That is an available factory team part. And anything intent is junk!

think mine has a strc one. i know my rear bulkhead piece is.

Makes sense. . I dont think they do make that part. But if I see it. I'll prob get it. Shes running smooth right now. But it was good for that little bit of weight it gave me up front. I can always add weight.  But if its center in a part. Built into the chassis thats a plus for me.
[/quote]lay off the double chase lol  ;D ;D ;D

You know thats not an option..

i like your pin it to wim it style  ;D