I got me some cool STRC upgrades for my OFNA Hyper 10SC. When the truck was brand new I bent the front shock upper support plate. The factory part was aluminum, but a bit on the thin side. I replaced the factory part with some STRC parts that are thicker but milled out where the shocks mount to keep the factory dimension in the areas that needed it. The STRC parts have been bullet proof so I decided to go for it and change out some other factory parts with STRC replacements. I know this is going to sound weird, but I hate it when my truck gets dirty. Yeah, I know it's a DIRT TRUCK, but it just bugs me so while I am in here I am going to do a serious cleaning. I hate to admit it but I was lazy in my after racing maintenance for a while now. I am also going to inspect my bearings since I bashed a lot in a gravel pit and that dust seems to be very aggressive. Here's the starting point:
I got a new JConcepts Raptor SCT-R (SVT) (http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_42&products_id=389) body that I will be using on this truck so I decided to change the front bumper from the stock "Lips" to a more realistic looking bumper. It looks like I have a slightly bent right front CV drive and this is a part I don't have. Crap. I removed the battery tray to get the gunk out. I think I'll never get all the burrs out of the velcro straps...
The STRC rear brace is really nice and allows the brace to swing up if I ever have to do any work on the drive shafts or center differential. I removed the front shocks to check them. For some reason I thought I had a bent shaft on one but both seem to be OK. I will also be removing the rear shocks to check them out also. A question that has always been on my mind is if the front and rear shocks have the same oil in them so I will use my calibrated fingers to find out.
I just realized that the Traxxas 1/16 eRevo receive box I bought does not have the bottom half which apparently is integrated in the chassis of the little eRevo. Now I need to find a nice sealed receiver box that is small enough to fit on the back side of the Hyper 10SC narrow chassis. Suggestions?
I wanted to drill the chassis and mount the receiver box in the rear right side which would be the area visible in the picture with the new STRC rear brace. But since you asked I measured and I barely have room for the bare receiver there after the motor is installed so I am going to have to rethink my mounting location completely.
I installed the STRC aluminum center differential brace. This part supports the center differential really well and holds the bearings on the outside of the differential better in alignment with less flex. So far the shocks seem to be good. I had considered buying aftermarket shocks but these are quite a "big bore" already. I measured them and they are 13 mm on the smallest area on the outside under the threads so I figure they may be 12 mm inside bore. The shock shafts are 3 mm. The shocks front and rear seem to be the same which is different than many other SC trucks that have shorter front shocks than rear. Yikes, the flash shows the dirt a lot more but it's getting dark.
A little better view of the center differential supports. Even without the top plate they are very sturdy.
This picture is the STRC aluminum top steering brace and front chassis brace. The center section is about done, next is the rear end but it's getting too dark.
I am preparing the JConcepts SCT-R body for mounting. Trimming is all done with some fine tuning with the Dremmel for clearances and cleanup. Sorry about the single photo posts. The website won't let me upload more at one time because of the 128kb file size limit.
This photo shows the body mounted to the truck with the shocks removed so the chassis pan is sitting flat on the table. This way I can check my tire clearances easily. The front tires still have a little clearance from the body but the rears are touching slightly so I will have to adjust the body mounts. I might also put some soft stops on the shock shafts to limit my upward travel because your upward travel does not need to be more than the distance of your ride height, the distance of the bottom of your chassis to the ground.
After some fiddling with the body mount posts and the Dremmel on the body I have it mounted where I want it. I got the body as low as I can get it but still can scoot the truck along the table on it's chassis and the tires will turn without rubbing on the body. In this side view you can see the nice wide nerf bars on this truck. My body sits right up against them so after I paint the body I am going to add some velcro to the nerf bars and the inside of the body to hold the body even better and also reduce some of the body vibration. Since the body is still unpainted I also took the opportunity to mark the outside with a felt tip pen on top of the peel off overspray film where I want to mount some tape where the tires will potentially rub the paint off from the inside.
This is the chassis sitting on a block that gets the suspension close to the proper ride height and angles. What do you know, a Andersons peanut butter filled pretzel lid is almost perfect. After the shocks are re-installed and the suspension adjusted this is about how the truck will sit on the ground ride height wise. While setting up the rear body mounts I noticed that there is some tweak in the rear bumper. The bumper is still good, but since it is one of the only parts visible after the body gets painted I am going to replace it.
I really like that body also. I have done a bunch of those suckers. What are your plans for paint on it?
I am not sure yet about the paint. I do know I am going to do some detail like black on the louvers /vents. I kind of like the paint job they show on the JConcepts website, the blue with the black spotting on the rear quarter panels. I am thinking about the paint scheme as I am working on it all the time, just not decided yet exctly. My calibrated fingers are telling me the stock shock oil was 35 front and rear. After opening the fronts I saw the oil was dirty so I am going ahead and cleaning the shocks out and replacing the oils. I am going to go with Losi 40 in the rear and Losi 35 in the front and see how it drives. This truck has droop screws but they have eaten a tad into the aluminum chassis plate. I not a fan of droop screws into aluminum so I am limiting the droop inside the shocks. Believe it or not Team Associated SC8 caster hub spacers (P/N 89031) are perfect. They have a 3 mm hole and are a great outside diameter that will allow the oil to still be down below under the piston. I used one each blue and red on each front shock. I will measure my target droop for the rear shocks and see how much spacers I will use.