How to solder correctly

Ok in my last little bit I showed how to repair a lipo, in this segment I will show the correct items and the use of them for soldering.  The things you will need

A soldering stand (radioshack has one that works well) $20

140+ watt soldering gun, when soldering leads more is better because the less you heat the entire item the better your job is going to be and look.  I recommend a weller soldering gun, usually these can be had for around $50

60/40 rosin core solder, DO NOT use low lead solder, the lead needs to be there to help with flow.
1lb roll $12

Heat shring tube, complete sizing package from radio shack $7

Lastly I like to use Deans plugs exclusively and there wet noodle 12ga wire, it has stood the test of time and abuse.

First you need to tin your connector, next tin the lead your going to be working with, DO NOT expose the two leads at the same time!

Next attach the leads to the pack, after soldering your first lead shrink wrap it before starting on the next one so there is no possibility of an ark happening.


When both leads are attached and look shiny and in a ball put the shrink tube over them and heat it to cover them permanently.



And there you go, your connections should last the life of the battery or whatever else your working on without fail.  Hope this helps and happy rc'ing!

Another nice one sinistercad.
That's how I do mine except for a final step, while the iron is still hot, I score a couple of lines across both sides of the Deans plugs.
Makes getting them apart much easier, particularly when new.

Yes a fine posting indeed ...

Wht I do to deans (when I used deans, don't use them now as all my LiPo's get
Anderson PowerPolls. Cus NO soldering although they can be soldered if one chose)
is to chamfer the ends like in the PIC which made them easier to plug-in. Although it
don't help for un-plunging most of the trouble I was having was getting them
connected fast enough. If not done cleanly and fast enough on my heli's I would
miss the gyro initializing ... but that was just me and my gyro 8)

         

I have seen people mill the ends a bit to get them together and apart easier, but in my experience they will melt easier, also the power polls don't stand up to well when a high amount of current is run through them.

I like the Traxxas battery connectors.  They'll handle a ton of current and I don't need to use heat shrink.  The downside is they are a little bigger than Deans.

Traxxas connectors will melt when you start pushing them, there is also the bigger picture that I see everyone is missing RESISTANCE.  Resistance plays a key roll in how well something works and Deans have the lowest at almost immeasurable levels, while traxxas connectors are in the middle of the spectrum with molex or as they were called earlier "anderson power polls"  Deans also have the highest load capacity of any mass battery connector other than bullet style connectors in the 6mm range.

Some quick data, Sorry I am still trying to find the info on the traxxas ones right now.

Deans ULT 0.12 mohms
Kontronic silver 0.16 mohms
4mm Gold Bullet 0.32 mohms  (supposedly traxxas plugs fall in this range)
Sermos (Powerpole) 0.60 mohms  (these are the ones woods is using, I would recommend dumping)
2 mm Gold Bullet 1.16 mohms
Tamiya 2 - 3 mohms at best

I have seen people mill the ends a bit to get them together and apart easier, but in my experience they will melt easier, also the power polls don't stand up to well when a high amount of current is run through them.
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I used that specific DEANS on the same Heli/ESC for just over two years and never saw what you are describing! And the two helicopters (both 450's) using the Anderson PowerPolls my max draw was less than 30amps each and in saying I'm exaggerating a little as most of teh time according to the eLog the average draw was around 20a. Given the requirements of my applications they hardly came close the manufactures MAX rated draw which is 45amps, however it should be noted they do come in three flavours for this size connector 15a, 30a and 45a so it's wise to pick accordingly. That said Anderson PowerPoles are very underrated as they have been successfully flown up to 6S of relatively hard 3D flying. Any more than that I would certainly recommend a different connector, certainly to a connector that can take a higher amperage. However for me personally this is not a limitation as I've said my requirements are far less to which I've traded or eliminated the need for soldering and made for an easer or quicker connection. Both when setting up for the first charge and easier and quicker connection at the field and that's not forgetting the latter is a requirement of my GYRO which I've previously mentioned in my first post

I never said I'm using Sermos, they are NOT "teh ones w00d is using". Sermos and if I remember right are rated around 30amps but w/ the quality I found the first and only time I've used them I was not pleased with the quality of the connection. And for allot of people it's counter intuitive but it's a know fact a crimped connection offers less resistance than a soldered connection.

I never said I'm using Sermos, they are NOT "teh ones w00d is using". Sermos and if I remember right are rated around 30amps but w/ the quality I found the first and only time I've used them I was not pleased with the quality of the connection. And for allot of people it's counter intuitive but it's a know fact a crimped connection offers less resistance than a soldered connection.
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This debate could go on for years as it already has, it all boils down to this if you can solder correctly then a solder joint is almost resistance free and sustainable over time, if you spend 100-200+ dollars on the specific crimping tool for your connector than yes the resistance will be marginally less, but I'm not one to spend that kind of dough on a crimping tool.  Here is an excert from Anderson about crimping and soldering, and FYI wood sermos and powerpoles are the same thing and have been around since the days of rc reckoning.  I'll end with millions of RC'ers and almost every racer in the RC industry must be wrong when we say to use deans and solder the connection.



Crimping vs. Soldering

One of the many questions we receive is it best to solder or crimp the connectors? Either is OK, but each method should be done properly. If you are going to crimp use a crimper that will not destroy the round shape of the contact. Some brands of crimpers deform the barrel of the contact into an oval. The oval will not allow easy insertion into the housing and therefore requires re-crimping to make sure the contact is still a rounded shape.

Soldering is also acceptable, but you have to make sure that not too much solder is applied and that it does not run down onto the tongue (tip of the contact). Solder flux and solder on the contact add to the resistance of the connection.

In either case if you are using a wire size that may be too small for the contact you may have to fold the wire over (doubling) and then insert it into the contact to properly fill the hole to be able to make a proper crimp/solder connection.

I hear that yeah been there done that ... but now were just preaching to choir. So no offence I told you why I use the Andersons and that's what I accomplished or in other words time to agree to disagree

Agreed