BRUSHLESS SLASH SPUTTERS AT FULL THROTTLE=(?)-any ideas why??

I am using 11.1 lipo's 5000mah - running around 176 ish on the temp. gauge-check'd the gear mesh (ok) things seem to roll free-throttles up fine,sputters at full speed.Tried 2 batterys fully charged=same.

BUMMER-it's still pretty new-I am checking the programming right now

Check the batteries in the transmitter.

I'll put fresh ones in tomorrow=thanks Smitty

What is the c rating on the batterys you are running? Any chance you got hot enough to cook it a little? Does the motor itself spin free with no notchy feeling? Does it do it all the time or only at range when you are driving? Is it only on take off or whenever full throttle is pulled?

highlandcrawler-I used Dynamite Speedpacks 5000mah 11.1volt,3s ,20c Lipo's,I tried two different packs,both sputter-I have tried the stock kit 7cell nimh and it seem's to run fine.Next I tried a fully charged 7.4 Venom 5400mah 2s,20c lipo,it sputterd under hard excelleration,but tried to smooth out at max rpm,and if I excellerate slowly ,it doesn't sputter.----I did have the esc set for the lipos,and reset for the nimh's-if that matters.---thanks

---motor doesn't feel notchy-packed it ( chassis)w/ mud the other day,may have , but don't think it got so hot it was cooked. I'm new to these brushless motors, and have been cautious.

If it was me I would try a higher c rated battery. Next would be to swap the tx out for another. If you dont get it figured out shoot me a pm. I would be more than happy to help you out and get it going

I have another 2.4 gig traxxas transmitter,I will link them and try that-I don,t have access to any more batterys...so- I'll try that and let you know.I tried to stay in bed this morning (in and out ),so I'm just now getting a cup of coffee and some aleve=It's going to be a good day 8) !

All great suggestions mentioned previously, so this is more an FYI or reminder for everyone not excluding myself ... and it's also for our lurker friends as I'm often fond of saying

{IMO} What every Mr. Mechanic who's into electric power needs in their Box-O-Tools and I'm probably the worst as I'm short on cash for spars of anything ... Going to say it anyways  :-[

We need in our KITs:

        A working spare ESC/BEC to verify our ESC/BEC's are working ...
        A working spare Motor, Brushless of course ...
        A working battery(s) which should be the easy one as WE ALL have lots-O-batts ...
        A reasonably good Multimeter just to round things off

If NOT we can test the Motors "continuity" with a multimeter or some form of continuity tester. Sometimes especially after running extremely HOT the insulation on the windings can melt (or they simply get old and worn out like me) causing intermittent shorting. Other than bad settings in the ESC the only other thing that can go bad in our motors (lets say mechanically) are it's bearings. Although bearings as stated above is an easy enough check

As for ESC's the only way I know of to check w/ any accuracy is w/ an "oscilloscope" which for most is overkill and not in the budget. Hence having an known good ESC around to check against the suspected BAD one

The BEC is checked with a good Voltmeter (Multimeter) so again we have another easy check

Disclaimer: If I'm forgetting something or it's felt more is needed here, GO for IT as I'm old and gruff old fella liable to forgetting {LOL}

w00d

my other radio won't "bind"....The original radio is however giving me a throttle setting code I believe-trying to figure that out next.I may need some help Highlander-I have a family thing today/tonight though-I do appreciate the support=You guys are awesome!

Im home all day hiding from the rain and working on a scaler. Feel free to shoot me a pm and you are more than welcome to stop by and we can test the components for you

thanks highlandcrawler-I have to at least make an appt. w/ a specialist for my collar bone today,then if I don't take any pain killers,I should be ok...I just need to be careful,I found out my collar bone is in 4 pieces and I don't want to slow down the recovery .I REALLY DO NEED HELP W/ THIS ONE...I'm stuck.-thank you

You can drop it off if you like and I can look into it for you. No charge or anything just to get ya going.

that would be nice-I really don't know my finances right now, and won't til I talk to a specialist.The R/C's are all I can do for a while LOL-so you might be saving my sanity =much appreciated ---I can get out right now,and have til 1:30 or 2:00 today-where can I find you?

Give me a call. 218 5644
Erin

I shut off the low voltage cut off & ran it w/ an 11.1 lipo,it does improve the issue=pulls harder,sometimes not spouttering -but still does sputter-I am using a cheap lipo charger-maybe I messed up those lipo's---I think you are right highlandcrawler=lipo issue-not sure, but it makes sense to me.

=more issues w/ my VXL today...old ones never resolved (thought it might be the cheap LIPO's).Along w/ the sputtering,it started getting hot really easy (?)...today, it made a spun gear noise.I thought I waisted the main gear, CK'd it =main gear was fine.I decided to leave the gear cover off and watch things rotate.Turns out, the spinning was inside the motor-THE MAGNET IS SPINNING ON THE SHAFT....EVER HEARD OF THAT????....I wonder if that is fixable?Or if it  is servicable (replacable shaft w/ magnet?)

Traxxas is really good at supporting their products.  I would call them tomorrow and see if they offer a new rotor as a separate item.  I know Novak sells different rotors for their Ballistic series brushless motors that allow you to repair a motor yourself, or change it's characteristics.
For example: http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/Ballistic+540+Sintered+Rotor+--+12.3mm/part_number=5941/135.0.1.1.109643.110088.0.0.0?pp=10&

thanks GPS,it looks like I will be calling them tomorrow.I'm kind of bummed , it's still pretty new.It's been a few years since I have been into R/C-I hate to start off like this.