A High-Quality Bixler 1.1 Build

GPS · Jan 2, 2014

I have seen some really horrific pictures on the internet of Bixlers with everything taped to the outside. After digging through the internet, I found the answers I needed to build my plane, but the learning curve was pretty steep. Hopefully I can help somebody out and save them a lot of frustration by logging my whole build.

The equipment list:

Bixler 1.1 ARF: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=...

Motor: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=...

ESC: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=...

SBEC (Optional): http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=...

ESC Programmer: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__45206__HobbyKing_Program...

Motor mount (for spinning bigger props): http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=...

APM 2.6 with separate GPS/compass

Radio: DX8

Receiver: AR6210, no satellite

Prop: APC 7-5. The HK 7-5 prop came with horrible adapter collars and I do not recommend them!

30cm 4 position cable: https://store.3drobotics.com/products/df13-4-position-connector-10-...

30cm 6 position cable: https://store.3drobotics.com/products/df13-6-position-connector-30-cm

5 pin housing: https://store.3drobotics.com/products/df13-5-position-housing

Female-female jumpers (15cm x 7 qty) https://store.3drobotics.com/products/servo-extension-cable-female-...

I am waiting on my new air-frame after an unfortunate incident with an electrical wire on a windy day (part of the learning curve, which I will elaborate upon thoroughly to spare you the anquish.) I will post pics of the air-frame assembly when I receive it next week. For now, I will show you what I did with the electronics. Before I knocked the tail off, I had my plane hitting waypoints, loitering, RTL, and auto-landing. I do not have telemetry yet, so I just did the stock PID settings and added some I gain. More on that later.

About using an external SBEC: I chose to do this because I am an RC heli guy, and I am used to using servos that draw ridiculous current. My thoughts are that if you supply the servos separate from the motor, there is less chance of either one shutting down due to over-current draw (but you also add a second electronic device that can fail). I am thinking of when the motor is at max throttle and the servos are fully deflected, such as on a very windy day, the separate BEC will give you some headroom.

Programming the ESC:

1. Set up the programmer card as such:

I purposely set the low voltage cutoff to its lowest setting to allow the APM failsafe feature do its job. It is veeeeeery nice, but more on that later. Don't worry about FWD vs REV; you can just switch two of the motor wires if the motor spins backwards.

2. Connect the ESC to the card and the motor (no prop).

3. Plug the ESC into a battery and you should get one tone from the motor, letting you know that programming is complete.

4. Disconnect the programming card and then the battery.

Wiring the ESC and BEC:

I chose to use EC3 connectors in my build, because all of my batteries have them. XT-60 are just fine.

1. Cut the servo power lead off of the BEC at the connector. Solder the BEC power cables with the ESC power cables into your connector. This can be a little tricky, but if you get the solder hot in the connector, you should be able to slip the BEC power cables into the connector after you solder the ESC cables. Just keep the heat on it and slip them in. It helps to have a set of "helping hands", but I use my children instead

2. I chose to run my servos at 5V from the BEC. [Edit: I originally said 6V] There is a jumper on the end of it that lets you select 5 or 6 V. Before I reinstall the electronics I will secure the jumper on the BEC with a glob of hot glue or shoe goo.

3. Pull the center (red) pin and wire from the ESC receiver connector. This disconnects the built in BEC from the ESC. You don't need it, it is only powering the motor. Make sure to tuck it away with heat shrink tubing. You will need it if you need to re-program the ESC.

4. I added 100mm motor lead extensions which make your life much easier when wiring the Bixler's motor later. I used 3.5mm banana plugs (I think) and 14 GA. wire (I'm pretty sure) from Hobby King. It may have been 16 GA.wire, but don't sweat the small stuff. You should get some 3mm banana plugs in case I'm wrong about their size. I had them in a drawer on my work bench and ran with them

Here it is ready to go:

I made a mounting plate for the APM using 5mm plywood, which I assume is 1/4" thick. I cut it 45 x 100 mm. I don't know the name of the gel pad my APM is mounted on, but I can find that out from the nephew who gave it to me. You will want to secure the gel pad to the plywood plate with Welder Glue. I bought mine from Lowe's, but if you can't find it, Amazon has plenty.

The APM mounted on the plate:

(Pictured are the stock cables to the GPS. I will be using the 30cm cables for the real build)

A note on Welder's Glue: it is contact cement. Lightly cover each surface you wish to bond and let them partially dry for about five minutes. Put the two surfaces together and POW, it is stuck. I will also use Welder's Glue for assembling the foam air frame and building a super trick access door in the fuselage.

That is about all I can do until the air frame gets here. The assembly is a breeze with this stuff out of the way.
Click to expand...

Read more and see photos via the source link.

Source:
http://diydrones.com/profiles/blogs/a-high-quality-bixler-1-1-build

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A High-Quality Bixler 1.1 Build

GPS Registered

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A High-Quality Bixler 1.1 Build

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